Traditional recipes
Time-honoured dishes from every region, with their history and meaning.
- Indori poha
इंदौरी पोहा
Steamed flattened rice with onion, fennel and a tangy spice mix called jeeravan, topped with sev. Indore’s everyday breakfast, often eaten with hot jalebi.
Madhya Pradesh (Indore and Malwa)25 minVegetarian - Dal bafla
दाल बाफला
Wheat dough balls boiled, then baked and soaked in ghee, served with spiced dal. The feast dish of Malwa.
Madhya Pradesh (Malwa: Indore, Ujjain, Ratlam)1 hour 15 minVegetarian - Bhutte ka kees
भुट्टे का कीस
Grated sweet corn cooked in milk with green chillies and mustard seeds, a savoury snack from Indore.
Madhya Pradesh (Indore)25 minVegetarian - Garadu
गराडू
Cubes of purple yam fried crisp and tossed with a tangy spice mix and lemon, a winter street snack of Indore.
Madhya Pradesh (Indore and Malwa)35 minVegan - Khopra pattice
खोपरा पैटीज़
Potato patties stuffed with sweet-spicy coconut, dry fruits and green chilli, fried crisp. An Indore speciality.
Madhya Pradesh (Indore)45 minVegetarian - Indori dahi vada
इंदौरी दही बड़ा
Soft urad dal vadas in thick, lightly sweet curd, topped with spice powders and sometimes tossed high in the air as they are served.
Madhya Pradesh (Indore)40 min + soakingVegetarian - Indori shikanji
इंदौरी शिकंजी
Not the lemonade of North India but a thick, sweet milk drink with saffron, cardamom and nuts, sold in Indore’s markets.
Madhya Pradesh (Indore)40 min + chillingVegetarian - Ratlami sev
रतलामी सेव
Crisp gram flour noodles spiced with cloves, black pepper and ajwain. A GI-tagged snack from Ratlam.
Madhya Pradesh (Ratlam and Malwa)40 minVegan - Mawa bati
मावा बाटी
Fried khoya dumplings stuffed with dry fruits and soaked in sugar syrup, a rich sweet of Malwa.
Madhya Pradesh (Malwa: Indore, Ujjain, Ratlam)1 hourVegetarian - Khoya jalebi
खोया जलेबी
Dark, thick jalebis made from khoya, fried in ghee and dipped in syrup. A sweet Jabalpur is known for.
Madhya Pradesh (Jabalpur and Mahakoshal)1 hourVegetarian - Morena gajak
मुरैना गजक
Thin, brittle sheets of sesame and jaggery, beaten until flaky. The winter sweet of Morena in the Chambal region.
Madhya Pradesh (Morena and Gwalior, Chambal region)1 hourVegetarian - Bedai with aloo ki sabzi
बेड़ई और आलू की सब्ज़ी
Crisp puris stuffed with spiced urad dal, eaten with a thin, tangy potato curry. A breakfast of Gwalior and the Chambal region.
Madhya Pradesh (Gwalior and Chambal), also Agra and Braj1 hour + soakingVegan - Chakki ki shaak
चक्की की शाक
Steamed wheat-gluten pieces cooked in a spiced curd gravy, a traditional Malwa dish for days when fresh vegetables were scarce.
Madhya Pradesh (Malwa), also parts of Rajasthan1 hour 30 minVegetarian - Makki ka paniya
मक्की का पानिया
Thick maize-flour breads baked between leaves over a slow fire, a rustic dish of the Malwa and Nimar countryside.
Madhya Pradesh (Malwa and Nimar, and Bhil areas of Jhabua and Alirajpur)1 hourVegetarian - Kadaknath chicken curry
कड़कनाथ चिकन करी
A spicy curry of the black-fleshed Kadaknath chicken, a GI-tagged native breed of Jhabua.
Madhya Pradesh (Jhabua and Alirajpur)1 hour 30 minNon-vegetarian - Bhopali gosht korma
भोपाली गोश्त कोरमा
Mutton slow-cooked with browned onions, curd and whole spices, a festive dish of old Bhopal’s kitchens.
Madhya Pradesh (Bhopal)2 hoursNon-vegetarian - Bhopali seekh kebab
भोपाली सीख कबाब
Spiced minced meat moulded on skewers and grilled over charcoal, sold in the evening lanes of old Bhopal.
Madhya Pradesh (Bhopal)1 hour + restingNon-vegetarian - Bhopali paya
भोपाली पाया
Goat trotters simmered overnight into a rich, spiced broth, eaten hot on winter mornings in old Bhopal.
Madhya Pradesh (Bhopal)6–8 hours (mostly slow cooking)Non-vegetarian - Bhopali gosht pulao
भोपाली गोश्त पुलाव
Rice cooked in a fragrant mutton stock (yakhni) with whole spices, lighter than a biryani and served at Bhopal’s feasts.
Madhya Pradesh (Bhopal)2 hoursNon-vegetarian - Bhopali keema
भोपाली कीमा
Minced mutton cooked dry with onions, tomatoes and green chillies, a popular breakfast and dinner dish in old Bhopal.
Madhya Pradesh (Bhopal)45 minNon-vegetarian - Sheer khurma
शीर ख़ुरमा
Fine vermicelli cooked in milk with dates, nuts and cardamom, served to every guest on Eid ul-Fitr in Bhopal.
Madhya Pradesh (Bhopal), and Muslim households across India40 minVegetarian - Kutki kheer
कुटकी की खीर
A sweet porridge of little millet (kutki) cooked in milk with jaggery, from the Gond and Baiga areas of Mandla and Dindori.
Madhya Pradesh (Mandla, Dindori and other tribal districts)45 minVegetarian - Kodo bhaat with dal
कोदो भात और दाल
Kodo millet cooked like rice and eaten with a simple dal, a daily meal in the tribal hill villages of Dindori and Mandla.
Madhya Pradesh (Dindori, Mandla, Balaghat)40 minVegan - Chironji barfi
चिरौंजी की बर्फी
A milk fudge rich with chironji, the small nut-like seeds collected from forest trees in Madhya Pradesh.
Madhya Pradesh45 minVegetarian - Indori khasta kachori
इंदौरी खस्ता कचौरी
Flaky fried pastries filled with spiced moong dal, a morning favourite in Indore served with chutneys.
Madhya Pradesh (Indore and Malwa)1 hour 15 minVegan - Gakkad bharta
गक्कड़ भरता
Thick wheat breads roasted in the embers of a fire and eaten with smoky mashed brinjal, a rustic winter meal of Malwa and Nimar.
Madhya Pradesh (Malwa and Nimar)1 hourVegetarian - Jowar ki roti
ज्वार की रोटी
Hand-patted sorghum flatbreads, a staple of the Nimar region along the Narmada, eaten with dal, kadhi and chutneys.
Madhya Pradesh (Nimar: Khargone, Khandwa, Barwani, Burhanpur)30 minVegan - Mungodi ki sabzi
मुंगौड़ी की सब्ज़ी
Sun-dried moong dal dumplings cooked in a spicy tomato gravy, a pantry dish of Bundelkhand homes.
Madhya Pradesh (Bundelkhand: Sagar, Chhatarpur, Tikamgarh, Damoh)40 min (mungodi made in advance)Vegan - Rikwach
रिकवच
Colocasia leaves spread with spiced gram flour paste, rolled, steamed and sliced, then fried or cooked in gravy. A monsoon dish of Baghelkhand.
Madhya Pradesh (Baghelkhand: Rewa, Satna, Sidhi), also Bundelkhand and eastern Uttar Pradesh1 hourVegan - Indarsa
इंदरसा
Fried rice-flour and jaggery cakes coated in sesame, made for weddings in Baghelkhand.
Madhya Pradesh (Baghelkhand: Rewa, Satna, Sidhi), and neighbouring Chhattisgarh1 hour + 2–3 days soakingVegetarian - Besan laddoo (temple style)
बेसन के लड्डू
Gram flour roasted slowly in ghee and shaped with sugar into round sweets, the kind of laddoo sold as prasad at the Mahakaleshwar temple in Ujjain.
Madhya Pradesh (Ujjain and Malwa)50 minVegetarian - Kesariya doodh
केसरिया दूध
Hot milk simmered with saffron, cardamom and nuts, poured from a height to froth it, at Indore’s Sarafa night market.
Madhya Pradesh (Indore)30 minVegetarian - Gulgule
गुलगुले
Soft, round fritters of wheat flour and jaggery, made as an offering and a festive snack in Bundelkhand and across central India.
Madhya Pradesh (Bundelkhand and central India)40 minVegetarian